At a time when the cosmetics industry has seen the birth of large pictograms and arguments so that each brand can differentiate itself, stand out from the crowd or, on the contrary, align itself with what “sells”, what should you learn to detect to determine whether a product is healthy or not for your baby?
We have never heard so much about “undesirable ingredients”; endocrine disruptors, irritating ingredients, allergens, etc. but what are they?
What makes a product more tolerable to the skin and good for the body?
What about this “natural” or “organic” %?
Let’s start at the beginning: reading an INCI list
The list of cosmetic ingredients (INCI, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is a list used to describe the components of a cosmetic product. Here’s how to read an INCI list:
Ingredient Names : Cosmetic ingredients are usually listed by their scientific name. For example, sweet almond oil is listed as Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil. If you don’t recognize a name, you can look up its meaning online or consult a cosmetic ingredient dictionary such as INCI BEAUTY. Ingredient Order: Ingredients are usually listed in descending order of concentration, meaning that the most abundant ingredient is listed first, followed by the others in descending order of concentration. Therefore, the ingredients present in the greatest quantity in the product are listed first. The exception is ingredients with a low concentration, which may be placed in a random order.
Additives : Some ingredients may be followed by additives or codes to indicate their specific form or processing. For example, titanium dioxide, a commonly used ingredient in sunscreens, may appear as “Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).”
Allergens : Potential allergens, such as fragrances, dyes, or other irritants, may be listed under their INCI name. Common allergens can be more easily identified in the INCI list. You can find a list of the 26 cosmetic allergens here.
Excipients : Excipients or ingredients that play a role in the formulation of the product, such as emulsifiers, thickening agents, etc., are also listed in the INCI list.
Additional information : The INCI list may also include additional information, such as warnings, special mentions or information on the origin of the ingredients. It is important to note that the INCI list does not generally provide details on the source of the ingredient (for example, whether it is an ingredient of natural or synthetic origin). To help you in this process, you can turn to certified products such as, for example, the COSMOS ORGANIC or COSMOS NATURAL certificate which requires informing the consumer on the % of ingredients from organic farming or ingredients of natural origin.
The choice of ingredients
An endocrine disruptor is a chemical that can interfere with the endocrine system, which is responsible for regulating hormones in the body. Hormones control many bodily functions, such as growth, metabolism, reproduction, development, the immune system, and many others.
Long-term exposure to endocrine disruptors may be associated with a variety of health problems, including reproductive harm, hormone-dependent cancers, developmental problems, metabolic disorders, and immune system dysfunction. This is particularly true during pregnancy, early childhood, and adolescence.
Here are some examples of known or suspected endocrine disruptors in cosmetics:
Parabens: Parabens are preservatives commonly used in personal care products to extend their shelf life. They can be potential endocrine disruptors and are often avoided in baby products.
Phthalates: Phthalates are chemicals used to soften plastics and are sometimes found in perfumes and baby lotions. They can also be endocrine disruptors.
Synthetic preservatives: Some synthetic preservatives, such as formalin, methylisothiazolinone (MIT), and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), may also be potential endocrine disruptors and are often avoided in baby products.